In 2020, for the first time, the food sector handmade panettone had exceeded in value that of the industrial product. Since then it has a continuous development and Today artisanal panettone is a new standard, and everyone interprets it in their own way.
Diego Crosara, Head of his pastry shop Marchesi 1824 Patisseriewinner of the 2023 edition of the competition Panettone artists the classic, low, voted by the judges (including me) and by the president of the jury, Captain Sal De Riso. “Panettone is a classic. And then we’re in Milan – he says – All the more reason to offer a traditional product».
This year they also “surrendered”. peanut trend, with a supplied version of cream to add to the flavour. Since the peanut-tasi Panettone has also exploded, even if, according to data collected by the Italian Food Union, Italians prefer traditional recipes (66.0% for panettone, 69.3% for pandoro), while they are less inclined towards these “special », for example enriched with garnishes (11.6% panettone, 9.0% pandoro). A second SWG survey for Deliveroo explored the relationship between Italians and panettone: for them, 8 out of 10 eat it and the delivery lasts, including the candied fruit! However, there are always many variations, especially the chocolate ones.
All types of panettone
“Sales now start earlier and earlier – he explains to me Paolo Sacchetti from the Nuovo Mondo patisserie in Prato – not before, it all came together only in December.” Paolo was one of the first to believe in the “de-seasoning” of panettone, creating the legendary a year ago Syrup, a non-panettone with figs from Carmignano and walnuts from Val Bisenzio. Also according to SWG, i super addicts – 21% of respondents – say they will stock up at least until Easter. Among young people under the age of 34 it is 54%. If on the one hand panettone has found a new identity, not only for Christmas, the standardization of consumption risks disappearing local traditions – a bit like what has already happened with bread. In the South, the great pastry tradition has welcomed panettone, giving it a personal interpretation. Just think to panettone from Sal de Risoin his creations De Vivo Patisserie in Pompeii (which enriches the puffed product to the point of making it something else, like PanSfogliatella), or Gabbiano Patisserie, also from Pompeii with their Panbabà, to all the other great interpreters of the “Southern” school. Here the panettone has become a dessert for the holidays, and not necessarily just Christmas and New Years. Vincenzo Tiri from Potenza, prize-winning master in his pastry shop Tiri Bakery & Caffe’ (the first in the world with sourdough only) serves a panettone tastingthe Tiri Experience, a taste journey of 4 sweet and savory dishes exclusively based on panettone.
Craft or industrial, as long as it’s good
There are poor craftsmen and others who are very good in every field. So Artisan does not mean better or better quality, it means that the production of this product is at least partially done by hand and/or by a craft company. In confectionery workshops and small businesses some stages of dough processing such as pirling are done by hand, in large industries everything is done by machine. The quality of the raw material is another chapter, you can choose top or use a mixture of flours and semi-finished products, choose French butter or anhydrous butter, hand-made candied fruit or simply with glucose syrup. There are industries that work very well in this sense. “Artisanal” sounds better, but it’s often about marketing and it shouldn’t be Therefore, underestimate the high-quality products of one who is not a craftsman in the normal sense of the term, but who makes a lot of quality.
Prices
Prices are increasing year by year, there has already been a significant increase in 2022 and therefore there will be no further increases in 2023. The average price of artisanal is now around €35. But it takes €43 to buy one from Iginio Massari. A simple one, because over the years the packaging has also evolved, the signed limited editions and there you can even spend more than €70. On the other hand, a good industrial product, well made, costs around €30 and gives satisfaction. There is something for everyone.