The story we can tell today has neither a beginning nor an end. It is lost in the undergrowth of the upper Val Bisagno on the slopes of the hill overlooking the village of Traso. We meet the efforts of the craftsmen in the perfection of the corners that are the last remnants of the abandoned city of Barego.
There is no historical document that brings to light the history of this place. Its extension and the number of houses make us imagine the importance of the village in the years of its greatest glory. We are certainly talking about centuries, but we cannot rule out even a thousand-year history. In fact, until a few years ago, you could still see beautiful medieval-style arches that had recently collapsed. The most recent testimonies, however, collected by the inhabitants of the valley, tell of the presence of a slate quarry, not far from the village, which turned into a logistical hub for the miners and the transport of the black stone downstream.
Barego yesterday and today
But the reality of events seems different and may date back many centuries. The foundations of the houses can be dated to the 7th century. At that time, due to the invasion of the Lombards, the bishop of Milan, Honorato, fled to Genoa. He was welcomed by the bishop of Superba and offered these lands to feed and supply the numerous servants and slaves who followed him. The stone huts and large cribs seem to confirm the dating of the ruins. Barego is located on the ancient Via del Sale that connected Genoa to Piacenza, so it is assumed that after 1200 the village may have reached its maximum economic and social importance. While in 1700 the village may have been permanently abandoned.
In recent history, Barego refers to the questions of local writer Eugenio Ghilarducci in his 1990 book “Antiche genti di Liguria: il Bargaglio”. In 2006 it gained international prominence thanks to Professor Tullio Pagano, professor of Italian at Dickinson College in Carlisle, Pennsylvania. In his book “The civilization of the chestnut” he makes a call to bring Barego back to life:
It is not just a matter of restoring the few houses and some parts of dilapidated mules, but of restoring to the village (and inland the Genoese Apennines) this role as a hinge between the Mediterranean and the rich markets of northern Italy
After the publication of the book, the multinational Intertek Group proposed a project to the municipality of Bargagli to create a farmhouse with respect to architectural traditions. Despite the good intentions of the municipal engineers to create a new urban plan for the regeneration of the village, no progress has yet been made. The beauties of this corner of Liguria are thus destined to be lost forever in the undergrowth.
The excursion
Our route starts from Colle della Speranza. It can be reached by following the signs for Maxena along the SS225 of Val Fontanabuona or the signs for Traso for those arriving from Genoa on the SS45. From the rest area before the Bargagli lighthouse you can do various hiking routes.
We follow the red square path and descend into the valley of Trasos, first crossing the slope and then entering the forest. After a few detours, indicated by our ever-present symbol, a clearly original cobblestone of the time begins that takes us to the first houses of the village after about 30 minutes of walking. Barego is located between 677m and 767m above sea level and consists of a group of 25 houses that are still visible
The route can also be done in reverse, starting from Traso on the uphill mule track and then retracing your steps downhill. In this case you can reach the start of the path along via Fiume, leaving aside the deviation for Ciappa, where near a tight bend you can leave the car and start uphill on the path indicated by the village sign.
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